Unspoken Suit Rules for the Men

31 Mar

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MANic Monday!  Here we go again…first full week of work, in weeks…perhaps Months.  🙂

Found this gem on buzzfeed, so it’s just perfect for MANic Monday.  Link to article, at end of blog.

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1. The width of the tie should match the width of the lapel.

The width of the tie should match the width of the lapel.

It’s all about BALANCE.

2. In general, thin lapels are more modern. Wide lapels are more old-school, Mad Men style.

So choose your look accordingly.

3. A pocket square adds an extra level of polish, but make sure it doesn’t match your tie in either pattern or fabric choice.

A pocket square adds an extra level of polish, but make sure it doesn't match your tie in either pattern or fabric choice.

Before you go totally conservative, remember that the pocket square is where you get the most freedom and the one place you get to add a little pizzazz to your suit.

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4. When buying an off-the-rack suit, the number one thing to check is how the shoulders fit.

When buying an off-the-rack suit, the number one thing to check is how the shoulders fit.

Tsk, tsk, John McCain. Shoulder pads should end at the shoulders. The shoulders are the hardest to tailor, so make sure they don’t stick out or stick up.

5. A collar gap between your jacket’s lapels and your shirt’s collar can signify an ill-fitting jacket.

It’s complicated.  So much, in life is (or so I’ve been told)…don’t make dressing well, become complicated.  Not when you have me.

6. Opt for a charcoal or gray suit over black, unless you’re attending a funeral.

Opt for a charcoal or gray suit over black, unless you're attending a funeral.

Dark gray is more versatile and goes with more colors.

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7. Your belt should be fairly thin and the same color as your shoes.

Your belt should be fairly thin and the same color as your shoes.

Union Made makes these belts in a variety of leather and metal finishes.  They’re a big “much” for my taste…but what do I know?  Well, actually, I know quite a bit.  I prefer these belts…Shameless plug, btw.

JH belts

 

8. You should match your shoes to the color of your suit using this guide:

You should match your shoes to the color of your suit using this guide:

The above is hard to read, so try these 2 to give yourself a better visual.

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larger image

 

You can save these images to your computer, enlarge, and print.

9. Double vents in the back are more modern and fashionable.

This look is also more flattering for larger figures, and it gives you enough room to do that effortlessly casual “hand in pocket” thing.

10. For a more casual, trendy look, opt for a single-button peak-lapel jacket.

For a more casual, trendy look, opt for a single-button peak-lapel jacket.

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11. If you’re going for more formal business attire, opt for a double-button, notched lapel jacket.

If you're going for more formal business attire, opt for a double-button, notched lapel jacket.

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12. The Savile Row Fold keeps your dress pants from falling off the hanger.

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13. You should be able to slip your hand between your chest and your buttoned jacket such that it feels snug, but with room to move.

You should be able to slip your hand between your chest and your buttoned jacket such that it feels snug, but with room to move.

David Agbodji for Barneys

14. Always unbutton your suit before sitting down, or you risk ruining it.

Always unbutton your suit before sitting down, or you risk ruining it.

 

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15. The top button of a two-button (or the middle button of a three-button) should fall at or above the navel.

 

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The top button of a two-button (or the middle button of a three-button) should fall at or above the navel.

16. Always go with the classic windsor knot for your tie, but use the size of your head to determine whether you should go half or full windsor.

Always go with the classic windsor knot for your tie, but use the size of your head to determine whether you should go half or full windsor.

BIG HEAD = FULL KNOT. SMALL HEAD = HALF KNOT. If you’re not sure how your head size compares, ask one of your male friends. They should be able to give you an objective opinion.

17. If you’re wearing a vest, always keep the bottom button unbuttoned.

If you're wearing a vest, always keep the bottom button unbuttoned.

But plenty of men break this rule and are still able to pull off the three-piece beautifully.

18. There are practical reasons for vests beyond just how they look.

There are practical reasons for vests beyond just how they look.

A vest is best worn with single-breasted suits (so it’s actually visible). if you’re going to be wearing your suit in a cold climate, a vest can add a lot of warmth. It also adds a formal touch to your suit.

I’d like to go on record…I am NOT a fan of men wearing vests. 

19. Sleeve cuffs should be exposed about half an inch.

Sleeve cuffs should be exposed about half an inch.

For a harmonious look, try to match the visible cuff length to the amount of collar that is visible at the back of the neck.

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20. When you get your suit home, you’ll need a seam ripper or a small, sharp pair of scissors.

When you get your suit home, you'll need a seam ripper or a small, sharp pair of scissors.

Unstitch the jacket’s pockets, remove the tack stitches from the jacket’s vents, and remove the little embroidered label from the jacket’s left sleeve. Do this very carefully to ensure you don’t actually rip the fabric or neighboring threads.

21. Make sure that your socks are long enough that there’s no exposed leg when sitting down.

Make sure that your socks are long enough that there's no exposed leg when sitting down.

No one needs to see your hairy gams.  And no need to wear these striped socks. 😉

22. Your tie should always be darker than your dress shirt.

Your tie should always be darker than your dress shirt.

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23. The suit jacket should be just long enough to cover your pants zipper and butt.

The suit jacket should be just long enough to cover your pants zipper and butt.

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24. Your tie should JUST reach the waistband of your trousers, or be slightly shorter.

Your tie should JUST reach the waistband of your trousers, or be slightly shorter.

 

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25. For a more fashion-forward look, the pant hem should hit right at the top of your shoe.

For a more fashion-forward look, the pant hem should hit right at the top of your shoe.

For a more conservative look, the pants should cover the top of the shoe and parts of the laces.

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26. If you sweat a lot, wear an undershirt.

If you sweat a lot, wear an undershirt.

Preferably one with a deep neck so it doesn’t peek through. Nothing will cheapen the appearance of a suit more than a glimpse of undershirt.  Also, the “muscle-tee”, should be left to the gym, not underneath your dress shirt.  My opinion, btw.

27. Finally, go for the dimple.

Finally, go for the dimple.

The dimple is the little hollow beneath the knot of your tie, and it gives a slightly disheveled yet polished appearance to your finished look.

The below look does not have a dimple…but it still looks great.

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Such a fun week ahead…and a Critical Weekend!!  Can’t wait!

Song of the Week…Peace of Mind, by Boston…and a shout out to my 2 favorite Bostonians…Cathy and Mark!!

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And that she did!  Peace out!!

xoxo,

T.

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Source:  http://www.buzzfeed.com/peggy/unspoken-suit-rules-every-man-should-know

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4 Responses to “Unspoken Suit Rules for the Men”

  1. Stephanie March 31, 2014 at 9:18 am #

    I love Boston….the band AND the city. Great blog. Bring on the Critical Weekend!!!!!

  2. David B. Vliet March 31, 2014 at 11:09 am #

    Verrrrrry helpful!!! 

  3. LAP April 3, 2014 at 6:23 pm #

    Good info . . . and Always nice to look at the fellas!!

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. It’s a May MANic Monday! Wardrobe Essentials for the Men! | DRESSED TO A T - May 5, 2014

    […] Unspoken Suit Rules for Men […]

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